Tuesday, September 30, 2014
Phoebe Philo has managed to keep the reputation of having one of the most anticipated runway shows during Paris Fashion Week. This time around, it appeared that Philo grew tired of the perfect runway edit -- razor sharp and distilled to one or two carefully curated ideas. From the first look and all the way to the very last, their was an essence that this lineup exuded vulnerability in design aesthetic -- while embracing the uncertainty that has come along with it. In a way, you could tell that the inspiration behind the collection left Philo open to everything, and not too many preconceived ideas. No, meant yes and vice-versa. It was fascinating to see that this was consciously designed and the randomness of it all tied each look together so chic and effortlessly. The opening ensemble featured a utilitarian top paired with a fitted midi-skirt, provocative slit in both the back and front that dissolved into a surplus of fringe detailing. It set the tone for what followed, that bag people, the new shapes, let's talk about it.
Wednesday, September 24, 2014
Boy oh boy, how time flies. After almost replacing Marco Zanini at the end of last year, Alessandra Dell'Acqua at Rochas -- the No 21 made his debut for the house last February and cooked up a Resort collection in the midst of it all. At No 21, Dell'Acqua is specifically known for his ability to connect the dots between feminine and masculine dressing, we for sure saw that aesthetic this afternoon. His weapon of choice this time around was the utility belt, used in clever ways to create an industrial yet futuristic vibe -- to the beautiful and delicate Rochas looks we were used to seeing while in Zanini's hands. Whether you decide to wear your belt up high around you bust over a bejeweled evening gown or coat, will have sometime catching on in the real world but it really spiced things up on the runway.
Tuesday, September 23, 2014
Sam Rollinson is photographed by Alasdair McLellan in the latest editorial for The Gentlewoman's fall/winter 2014 issue #10. Styled by Jonathan Kaye, featuring pieces from Sam's personal wardrobe and the upcoming seasons most covetable effortless looks. Slick-back hair, minimal makeup, and a nude lipstick is all that you need to complete your sartorial pairings. The bulk of the editorial showcases the Céline gingham shirt layered under the Céline olive green ribbed sweater and Balenciaga jumper along with many others alike -- paired with those amazingly re-worked vintage frayed Vetement jeans and mannish lace-up shoes by Church's. Unapologetically feminine, but still not limited to crafty detailing that take you right into tomboy territory.
Sam Rollinson by Alasdair McLellan for The Gentlewoman F/W'14
Sunday, September 21, 2014
Jil Sander is one of the shows I look forward to most during Milan Fashion Week. Despite the unbreakable pattern of having a new creative director making the headlines every season before the clothing actually makes it to the runway. Hopefully, this time is when they've finally gotten it right. All eyes were on Rodolfo Paglialunga, who has taken over following the departure of the label's founder for the third time last year. After being the former womenswear design director at Prada, Paglialunga had an extremely big job on his hands. As many of us know, Jil Sander comes with some hefty baggage -- Raf Simons whom made the label something of a cult in each their own right. Tomboys rejoice, in the chicest way possible. This time around, for the first collection for Jil Sander -- Rodolfo Paglialunga delivered on the crisp clean minimalism the brand know for, not that there wasn't any newness. Menswear influences were big, as seen in crisp button downs, tailored trousers, and bermuda shorts. The structured dresses and skirts with wide slits were more feminine, but still had a tomboyish attitude.